Adam Reeve and the Ontario Access Coalition
Access issues and crag closures are an unfortunate reality for most Ontario climbers. Luckily, the Ontario Access Coalition (OAC) is working to change this situation. We recently caught up with OAC Executive Board Member Adam Reeve and discussed the OAC’s goals, some of the current challenges facing Ontario climbers and a recent access victory that will influence access to all National Parks.
Many readers are not aware of the Ontario Access Coalition (OAC). Can you give us some background on the OAC’s formation and some insight about its goals?
The OAC is a not-for-profit, volunteer group that works with climbers and Land Managers to ensure continued access to climbing and bouldering areas in an environmentally responsible manner.
The OAC was originally part of the ACC -Toronto Section. From these roots we created a separate organization specifically dedicated to climbing access issues in Ontario. Thanks to a grant from MEC we incorporated in spring 2009 and formed the Ontario Access Coalition.
The OAC is a not-for-profit, volunteer group that works with climbers and Land Managers to ensure continued access to climbing and bouldering areas in an environmentally responsible manner.
The OAC was originally part of the ACC -Toronto Section. From these roots we created a separate organization specifically dedicated to climbing access issues in Ontario. Thanks to a grant from MEC we incorporated in spring 2009 and formed the Ontario Access Coalition.
How did you get involved with the OAC?
I originally got involved with the OAC because of the bouldering ban at Halfway Log Dump. Many climbers were saying that someone should do something about the closure. I realized that one person wouldn't carry much weight with the National Park so I joined the OAC. The only way to generate change was by representing a larger group in an organized way.
I originally got involved with the OAC because of the bouldering ban at Halfway Log Dump. Many climbers were saying that someone should do something about the closure. I realized that one person wouldn't carry much weight with the National Park so I joined the OAC. The only way to generate change was by representing a larger group in an organized way.
What are some of the common misconceptions climbers have about access groups?
Many climbers mistakenly believe that local access groups like the OAC are part of the Alpine Club of Canada or that becoming a member of an access group requires volunteering time or donating significant amounts of money. None of these things are true and most access groups spend a good portion of their time demystifying these misconceptions. Climbers need to appreciate that access groups are their voice and that if they want improved access they need to support these groups.
Many climbers mistakenly believe that local access groups like the OAC are part of the Alpine Club of Canada or that becoming a member of an access group requires volunteering time or donating significant amounts of money. None of these things are true and most access groups spend a good portion of their time demystifying these misconceptions. Climbers need to appreciate that access groups are their voice and that if they want improved access they need to support these groups.
Why do access negotiations seem to take so long to resolve?
Climbers need to remember that National Parks, Provincial Parks, Conservation Areas, Nature Preserves, and Private Land Owners have different goals when it comes to managing their property.
Climbers need to remember that National Parks, Provincial Parks, Conservation Areas, Nature Preserves, and Private Land Owners have different goals when it comes to managing their property.
Access groups like the OAC try to help these Land Owners understand that when managed properly, climbing is a safe, low-impact, self powered outdoor activity that gives people a genuine connection to the natural world. When dealing with these groups, the OAC proposes a negotiation process, but typically Land Managers must adhere to established internal processes. Unfortunately, this often results in longer time lines. This is the nature of bureaucracy we have to work within.
What are the biggest access challenges for Ontario climbers and what is the OAC doing to address them?
The biggest challenge is establishing agreements with Land Managers that ensure continued access to climbing areas. Access is a privilege, not a right. Without these climbing access agreements, we can lose access at any time.
The other key challenge is raising awareness and getting the support of the climbing community. The math is simple - more OAC members equals more influence in negotiations and a greater chance of climbing areas reopening or staying open.
We faced these two challenges this spring with the proposed ban on bouldering at Niagara Glen. A change in the Niagara Glen park management coincided with the presentation of a new impact study to the Niagara Parks Commission and all of a sudden a bouldering ban was being proposed. The OAC prevented the climbing closure by submitting a petition representing over a thousand climbers opposing the ban. Now the OAC is again working with the Niagara Parks Commission to determine how best to manage bouldering in the Glen.
The OAC is addressing these challenges by also reaching out to Land Managers and climbers.
With Land Managers, we start a dialogue where we explain our sport and who we represent. We then work with them to create pro-climbing management policies and establish an agreement that secures climbing access.
We reach out to climbers with membership drives at Tour De Bloc competitions, Earth Day cleanups at crags and we’re considering premiering climbing films this spring.
We also encourage climbers to follow a common-code of ethics such as a leave no trace approach. This ensures that climbers, Land Managers, and other user groups all get along and that climbing outside remains a great experience.
The biggest challenge is establishing agreements with Land Managers that ensure continued access to climbing areas. Access is a privilege, not a right. Without these climbing access agreements, we can lose access at any time.
The other key challenge is raising awareness and getting the support of the climbing community. The math is simple - more OAC members equals more influence in negotiations and a greater chance of climbing areas reopening or staying open.
We faced these two challenges this spring with the proposed ban on bouldering at Niagara Glen. A change in the Niagara Glen park management coincided with the presentation of a new impact study to the Niagara Parks Commission and all of a sudden a bouldering ban was being proposed. The OAC prevented the climbing closure by submitting a petition representing over a thousand climbers opposing the ban. Now the OAC is again working with the Niagara Parks Commission to determine how best to manage bouldering in the Glen.
The OAC is addressing these challenges by also reaching out to Land Managers and climbers.
With Land Managers, we start a dialogue where we explain our sport and who we represent. We then work with them to create pro-climbing management policies and establish an agreement that secures climbing access.
We reach out to climbers with membership drives at Tour De Bloc competitions, Earth Day cleanups at crags and we’re considering premiering climbing films this spring.
We also encourage climbers to follow a common-code of ethics such as a leave no trace approach. This ensures that climbers, Land Managers, and other user groups all get along and that climbing outside remains a great experience.
You recently had a setback with climbing access to Rockwood and a huge access win with the bouldering at Halfway Dump. Can you give us some details on why one access initiative was so successful while the other seemed to stall?
The story at Rockwood is simple. The area was closed and people kept climbing there even while the OAC was negotiating its reopening. The published report and the Board meeting minutes both identify unauthorized climbing as a reason for the continued closure. It’s really unfortunate that members of our own community chose to undermine the negotiations. My hope is that what happened here makes Ontario climbers realize that we need to stick together. If people had respected the ban we could have had a very different outcome at Rockwood.
At Halfway Log Dump the community has an excellent opportunity to redeem itself by working together and acting responsibly.
The story at Rockwood is simple. The area was closed and people kept climbing there even while the OAC was negotiating its reopening. The published report and the Board meeting minutes both identify unauthorized climbing as a reason for the continued closure. It’s really unfortunate that members of our own community chose to undermine the negotiations. My hope is that what happened here makes Ontario climbers realize that we need to stick together. If people had respected the ban we could have had a very different outcome at Rockwood.
At Halfway Log Dump the community has an excellent opportunity to redeem itself by working together and acting responsibly.
The OAC worked with Bruce Peninsula National Park through a new Parks Canada Activity Assessment Process to determines the suitability of different activities in Canadian Parks. Bouldering at Halfway Log Dump is the national pilot activity for the Activity Assessment Program. Because we are dealing with Parks Canada, responsibly-behaving Ontario climbers can set a precedent for other areas and activities in Canada. The initial results of the Activity Assessment Program suggests that bouldering can occur if managed correctly and that climbing will promote the goals of the National Park. This requires that climbers step-up and learn about the area and act as stewards for the environment. If the final approval is given to reopen bouldering, it’s critical that we look after the privilege, as our behaviour here can impact how climbing is addressed across the country by Parks Canada.
How can climbers help maintain access to climbing areas?
Having a Leave No Trace ethic, a stealthy approach and a big smile keeps our crags open. The OAC has a published a Code of Ethics that we encourage people to follow and is available on our website www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com. Something as simple as brushing off tick marks can make a difference. While climbers understand that the tick mark will eventually wash off, other user groups and even the Park Superintendents may not feel the same. Climbers need to respect closures, appreciate that someone is always noticing their actions. We must remember that the Land Managers share both their positive and negative climber experiences - word gets around. Act as a steward for your crag, be proud of it, and help others understand why it’s important to do the same.
Having a Leave No Trace ethic, a stealthy approach and a big smile keeps our crags open. The OAC has a published a Code of Ethics that we encourage people to follow and is available on our website www.ontarioaccesscoalition.com. Something as simple as brushing off tick marks can make a difference. While climbers understand that the tick mark will eventually wash off, other user groups and even the Park Superintendents may not feel the same. Climbers need to respect closures, appreciate that someone is always noticing their actions. We must remember that the Land Managers share both their positive and negative climber experiences - word gets around. Act as a steward for your crag, be proud of it, and help others understand why it’s important to do the same.
How can climbers help the OAC?
The OAC provides a way for climbers to work together to promote access. In 2009 we launched a petition and letter writing campaign to oppose the proposed bouldering ban at the Niagara Glen and these efforts saved the area from closure. This proved that when we act as a group we have a voice and can get results. That’s why we ask people join the OAC, promote a Leave No Trace approach and encourage their fellow climbers to do the same. You can sign up for the OAC at most local gyms in the GTA or on our website.
The OAC provides a way for climbers to work together to promote access. In 2009 we launched a petition and letter writing campaign to oppose the proposed bouldering ban at the Niagara Glen and these efforts saved the area from closure. This proved that when we act as a group we have a voice and can get results. That’s why we ask people join the OAC, promote a Leave No Trace approach and encourage their fellow climbers to do the same. You can sign up for the OAC at most local gyms in the GTA or on our website.
