Omega Pacific Dura Draw
While fixed draws may be controversial in some areas, they are almost mandatory on super-steep routes when cleaning and installing draws is often more difficult and complicated than actually climbing the route. In the past, when climbers faced these steep-climbing sections, they often installed conventional nylon draws and aluminum biners. And while these regular quickdraws may have been adequate for a few weeks or months of use, they were susceptible to UV damage, abrasion and wear. They also required frequent replacement if they were to offer an appropriate (and expected) level of safety. Unfortunately few climbers seemed willing to update fixed draws, so the gear often remained on the climb until well past its best-before-date.
Omega Pacific's Dura Draw
Realizing this, companies have started offering perma draws. Consisting of a steel rope-end biner, a swaged cable and a steel screw link, these draws deliver exceptional durability and resistance to UV damage making them perfect for fixed-use applications.
Recently Omega Pacific released their new and innovative (yes, innovative) Dura Draw. Like most fixed draws, Omega starts with a steel biner that has a 16 kN gate-open strength, a 40 kN gate-closed rating and a 12 kN cross-loaded rating - stronger than most if not all similarly sized aluminum biners. While the cross-loaded rating is reassuringly high, it’s almost unnecessary thanks to the biner's captive pin construction that ensures the biner remains correctly oriented. Omega has chosen to use a bent wire gate, that unlike some steel biner gates, offers effortless clipping and less likely to gum up with use.
Recently Omega Pacific released their new and innovative (yes, innovative) Dura Draw. Like most fixed draws, Omega starts with a steel biner that has a 16 kN gate-open strength, a 40 kN gate-closed rating and a 12 kN cross-loaded rating - stronger than most if not all similarly sized aluminum biners. While the cross-loaded rating is reassuringly high, it’s almost unnecessary thanks to the biner's captive pin construction that ensures the biner remains correctly oriented. Omega has chosen to use a bent wire gate, that unlike some steel biner gates, offers effortless clipping and less likely to gum up with use.
The easy-clipping rope-end biner.
On the bolt end, Omega specs a 30 kN strong screw link. While Omega could have used an even bigger and stronger screw link, they’ve noticed that the larger links tend to wear out and deform bolt hangers. And since it’s significantly more difficult to inspect and replace a hanger, Omega’s decision to spec a slightly smaller link is a really smart move.
Beefy cable, swage and screw link.
No more guessing when the gear was installed.
Linking these two components is a beefy swaged cable (22 kN rating) that’s covered with a durable rubber sleeve. On this sleeve Omega has added a small tab where climbers can print the date (wrap the tab with some clear packing tape for extra protection) that the Dura Draw was installed. This simple tab is a brilliant way of reminding climbers that no gear lasts forever and helps take some of the guesswork out of when to replace fixed hardware.
With their excellent construction and user-friendly design, Omega’s Dura Draws are a top choice for anyone installing fixed draws at an outdoor crag or an indoor gym. Very highly recommended.
Check out the Dura Draw and other Omega Pacific gear at www.omegapac.com.
Follow the discussion of this and other climbing issues at ontarioclimbing.com/forum.
With their excellent construction and user-friendly design, Omega’s Dura Draws are a top choice for anyone installing fixed draws at an outdoor crag or an indoor gym. Very highly recommended.
Check out the Dura Draw and other Omega Pacific gear at www.omegapac.com.
Follow the discussion of this and other climbing issues at ontarioclimbing.com/forum.
