Uniting Canada's Largest Climbing Community

Devil's Glen Access Update
As the primary force behind the new route development at Devils Glen, Randy Kielbasiewicz has also been busy trying to resolve the parking and cliff access issues for the climbing area. Here is an update from Kielbasiewicz outlining the current access situation, the proposed new parking locations and the new access trail to the cliff.

Devils Glen (DG) does not formally allow Rock Climbing under its current management plan. This plan will come up for review shortly and climber’s current actions will impact whether Rock Climbing is formally recognized as a viable activity in the new management plan.

An access path from the DG parking area has been suggested to park officials and was met with some interest given the current parking situation. I have been asked to accompany park officials during a walk through of the park property. It is my hope that we can convince them of the need for a formalized temporary access route through the park. This will take time and we as a community must remain patient.

In the meantime, the park border, which is approximately in line with Nut Cracker, and all properties to the west are on private land. This is now the new proposed access route for climbing at DG. Although at this time there have been no issues, climbers must tread lightly to avoid any new access problems.
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Devil's Glen Parking and Approach

It is my understanding that DG’s Superintendent John Fisher was positioned at Bon Echo. It is Fisher’s excellent relationship with Bon Echo Climbers that may ultimately prove to be the greatest asset in our goal of opening DG. Please consider the ramifications of your actions regardless of where you are climbing. Many of these areas are interconnected.

This new access path does not cross park land in any fashion. Please keep in mind that you are on private land and should therefore act accordingly. As a temporary solution to the current parking situation, I respectfully ask that all individuals park at one of the following locations.

Park on the 10th Concession approximately 500 m east of current parking. Car should be at least 50 m north from the intersection and as far off the road as possible. Walk along the road to the trail head, which is marked with orange tape.

Alternatively, climbers can park in Devils Glen Provincial Park. Parking is currently no charge. Walk back up the shoulder of HWY 124 to the trail head.

I will be handing copies of this document out to all I see at the cliff. Please share this new parking information as quickly as possible. If you see individuals not following the parking suggestions, please ask them to visit the
Ontario Climbing Forum for details.

I will do my best to inform the community of any developments regarding this situation.

Until then climb responsibly and maintain a low profile.

Thanks, Randy

Below are the new Devils Glen guidelines and the parking/access map. Just right-click and save to your computer or device.
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Gus Alexandropoulos is a freelance writer who has been involved in the outdoor industry for over 35 years. During his career he has been the editor at Canada’s national climbing magazine, as well as the gear editor for a national cycling magazine, triathlon magazine and running magazine. His work has been published in Canada’s national newspaper, The Globe and Mail, and he has been a guest on television and radio broadcasts. His passion for climbing began in Ontario in the mid-80s and he continues to travel extensively in search of crisp conditions and steep rock.