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Ontario Climbing
Ontario Climbing

Uniting Canada's Largest Climbing Community

Bolts Removed From Classic Trad Climb

  • Alan’s Layback 5.7, is the route furthest on the left in the photo.

    Alan’s Layback 5.7, is the route furthest on the left in the photo.

Ontario Climbing has received confirmed reports that the bolts added to the classic trad route Alan’s Layback 5.7, at Kelso Conservation Area in Milton, have been chopped. The route, originally climbed sometime between the 1950s and 1960s, had recently been retro-bolted by an unknown climber(s), resulting in swift condemnation from many in the local climbing community.
Alan’s Layback 5.7 was originally climbed by Alan Hughes sometime between the 1950s and 1960s.
In a recent social media post, the Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) stated that it was working with Conservation Halton to address this situation, and a public statement would be issued sometime this week.
  • Alan’s Layback 5.7, at Kelso Conservation Area in Milton, has recently been bolted.

    Alan’s Layback 5.7, at Kelso Conservation Area in Milton, has recently been bolted.

According to the local guidebook, Ontario Climbing Vol 1: The Southern Escarpment, Alan’s Layback 5.7 was originally climbed by Alan Hughes sometime between the 1950s and 1960s. The line climbs a 15m flake on surprisingly good rock and is protected with solid, larger gear. The route’s popularity has unfortunately resulted in the rock becoming highly polished, making it feel harder for less experienced climbers.  

More details as they become available.
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Gus Alexandropoulos is a freelance writer who has been involved in the outdoor industry for over 35 years. During his career he has been the editor at Canada’s national climbing magazine, as well as the gear editor for a national cycling magazine, triathlon magazine and running magazine. His work has been published in Canada’s national newspaper, The Globe and Mail, and he has been a guest on television and radio broadcasts. His passion for climbing began in Ontario in the mid-80s and he continues to travel extensively in search of crisp conditions and steep rock.