The Ontario Alliance of Climbers (OAC) and Conservation Halton have released a statement regarding the unauthorized retro-bolting and subsequent bolt-chopping of Alan’s Layback 5.7, a classic trad route in the Kelso Conservation Area.

Conservation Halton (CH), working with the OAC, has developed an access plan that requires “authorization for any development or maintenance occurring in their parks - whether it be new route development, tree cutting, trail building, or retro-bolting of existing routes.”

As the bolting of Alan’s Layback, as well as another new route, was not approved, CH requested that the OAC “facilitate” the removal of the new bolts. According to the OAC statement, “The bolts from Alan's Layback and another new route have already been removed by volunteers.”

AJ Leeming, who is the Senior Manager, Programs and Services director at CA, also stated that, “The addition of any permanent climbing hardware, creation of new routes, or modification of existing routes (or altering of/tampering with existing hardware – including rock climbs) is strictly prohibited without the express written consent of Conservation Halton”

“These actions can lead to the creation of unmanageable and possibly unsafe routes that could be detrimental to the environment and our climbing community. Anyone found or reported altering trails may see themselves removed from the park and potentially banned from CH parks via Tresspass notice.”

While the OAC and CH have a very positive and supportive working relationship, climbers will need to adhere to the guidelines stated above to avoid compromising this constructive partnership.

The OAC recommends that climbers first contact the organization if they wish to establish new routes or update existing climbs in Conservation Halton Park.

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